Fabric colour approval: avoid surprises between samples and bulk lots

Make one approved reference the colour standard

Use an agreed physical colour standard or an agreed digital specification supported by suitable measurement conditions, rather than an uncalibrated phone image. Identify the reference, date, fabric construction and finish, and retain a labelled approval sample. For tweed and mixed-colour yarn effects, assess the overall mixture and pattern as well as individual shades. Fred Textile's brochure terms are Top Dyeing and Piece Dyed; confirm the route for the selected style, without assuming either route guarantees identical colour performance.

Agree lighting and tolerance before deciding whether a shade matches

Compare the reference and sample under the agreed light sources and viewing conditions. A pair can appear to match under one light and differ under another; this is illuminant metamerism. If instrumental colour difference is used, agree the formula, illuminant, observer, measurement settings and acceptance tolerance together. A numerical result and visual appearance need to be reviewed on the agreed basis. There is no universal colour-difference limit that suits every textured wool fabric or brand specification.

Keep sample approval and bulk-lot acceptance connected

• State whether a development sample, colour sample or finished bulk cutting is being approved; they serve different decisions.
• Link each approval to the style, colour, finish and lot identifier, and record any authorised change after approval.
• Agree how differences within a roll, between rolls and between dye lots will be sampled and judged before cutting starts.
• Where the garment combines different fabrics, lining or trims, check visual harmony under the agreed lighting. Matching one fabric to a reference does not automatically approve the complete garment.

Test colourfastness separately from shade matching

A shade can match its reference yet transfer colour during rubbing or change under another exposure. ISO 105-X12 addresses colourfastness to rubbing, including dry and wet rubbing-cloth tests; AATCC TM8 is another rubbing-test method. Washing, perspiration and light require their own applicable assessments. Choose tests for the intended garment and care route, then agree methods, conditions and acceptance ratings. If a lot fails, identify the affected lot and review the evidence with the supplier before use rather than treating a new photograph as approval.