How to choose wool coat fabric: tweed, flannel, melton and double face
A fabric can look right in a photograph and still behave differently when cut, pressed or sewn. For a coat or jacket collection, start with the intended garment, then compare physical samples against a written specification. Wool percentage alone is not a complete buying specification.
First decide how the garment will be made
Describe the silhouette, lining, seam construction and intended season. A structured overcoat and a soft, unlined jacket need different fabric behaviour. For double-face fabric, ask whether the selected construction can be separated and finished at the edges as your garment requires; two usable faces do not automatically mean every fabric suits hand-finished reversible coats.
Compare the fabric directions, not just their names
- Tweed: assess the woven texture, colour mixture and pattern scale on a garment-sized sample, especially for checked pieces that need pattern matching.
- Flannel: compare the softness, nap and drape after the proposed finish. Check whether the surface and weight suit tailoring or a softer silhouette.
- Melton and overcoating: compare density, thickness, handle and pressing response. A dense appearance alone does not establish warmth or wear performance.
- Double face, bouclé and hairy wool blends: evaluate both faces, edge treatment, surface texture and seam bulk before choosing the construction.
Specify weight and usable width in clear units
State whether weight is in grams per square metre (g/m²) or grams per linear metre. They are not interchangeable: grams per linear metre divided by fabric width in metres gives g/m². Use the same width basis when comparing quotations. Ask for usable cutting width as well as nominal width, and include acceptable tolerances in the order specification. There is no single correct weight for every winter coat.
Approve colour, finish and performance before bulk production
Review the colour reference under the agreed viewing conditions, and confirm the intended handle and surface finish. Top Dyeing and Piece Dyed are the terms used in Fred Textile's brochure; confirm which route applies to your selected fabric rather than treating them as interchangeable. For your end use, agree the relevant pilling, colourfastness and dimensional-stability test methods and acceptance criteria. A small swatch cannot replace a garment trial or the applicable test report.
Browse the collection directions, then send your specification and reference sample to discuss a suitable wool or blended fabric programme. Availability, performance and delivery must be confirmed for the particular order.
Discuss your fabric project